Monday, October 13, 2008

Santiago de Chile April 2008

Neither Keith nor I had been to South America before and we were unsure of what to expect. We had booked a week in Chile, with most of the time being spent in the capital, Santiago. We had also booked two side trips, one to a vineyard and one to the coastal towns of Vina del Mar and Valparaiso.

Day One:
Logan airport. We flew out on Delta, with a connection in Atlanta. As per usual, we had a drink or two before the flight (Jameson and ginger ale). At the bar near us, there was a very drunk young man with an expense account. He was complaining about his delayed flight and was buying shots of Jager for the young ladies next to him, who were not quite so drunk.

On the first flight, as it was domestic, there was no food and barely even a drink service. Once we got to the ATL, it was food court time. I wanted some bad Chinese food, but I was apparently invisible to the people at Panda Express, so I was forced to go to McDonalds. Worst Big Mac ever. All the meat and veg were between two buns, so the third and top bun only covered more bread. Maybe they were concerned about my card intake.

The flight to Santiago was delayed past midnight due to weather. No one wants to be stuck in a metal tube up in the atmosphere during a thunderstorm. The terminal from which you fly out to South America is great. The hallways are littered with display cases full of the terrible things people have tried to bring back into the US, most of which are animal in origin. A whole turtle? Really? Not to mention many knives made of various bones and shell, as well as endangered birds and butterflies. What would you do with a giant dead turtle?

Day Two:
It's Day Two and we are still in the US, but finally on the long flight (ten hours). We were served spinach and cheese ravioli in a creamy pesto sauce with a crappy salad. Hours later somewhere far south of the equator, we were served breakfast: a croissant, a banana (Keith didn't get one; I gave him mine), a granola bar, juice, and tea.

Finally, en Santiago. After checking into the hotel, we thought to wander around a bit. We stayed at the Best Western Espanioles, in the Providencia district of Santiago. Gentrification has hit this area of the city first. We stopped and had lunch at "Gatsby's," which was reminiscent of TGIFridays. I had the Sampler de Pollo. I had been warned by a colleague that Chilenos do not know how to cook chicken, and in this, I was not let down. Perhaps, since South America is the land of some of the world's best beef and seafood--foods that taste best when their natural flavors are allowed to shine--that they have not learned what the Colonel has taught us. The more herbs and spices the better. Unseasoned grilled pollo, tomato, lettuce, avocado, and something that seemed a cross between an endive and a heart of palm. Although the chicken was flavorless, las verdunas son delicioso and fresh.

Keith had the lomito, a typical South American steak sandwich. The sandwich consists of thinly sliced beef on a bun with lettuce, tomatoes, cheese, and guacamole. There's a lunch counter here in Boston that serves the Peruvian style of this sandwich (addition of green beans). Lines stretch down the block during the lunch hour. This sandwich was three times better than the ones served at home. We split a bottle of 120 Sauvignon Blanc, a wine we have had on numerous occasions here at home as well. Vineyards will tailor their wines depending upon where they will be exported to. We Americans like our Sauvignon Blancs to be more acidic and tart. Imagine my surprise at the mellow and smooth flavor of this wine I had thought I had tasted before. 14.000 pesos, or around $30 with gratuity.

On our way back to the hotel for a much needed nap, we passes a grocery store. I cannot resist stepping into foreign grocery stores. They are a clear view into how the lives of the peoples we visit and our own are so much the same while being so different. We bought the usual: some bottled water (c'mon, we were in South America), chip and cookies, and three bottles of wine. All for around 5.200 pesos. (less then $12). The wines were: Oveja Negra Sauvignon Blanc. Muy bien! (I really liked this wine and if anyone here in Boston has seen it in a restaurant or liquor store, let me know!) Cosecha Lazo Sauvignon Blanc. Not so bien. Santa Carolina Estrella de Plata Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah. Very nice.

I would like to tell you, dear reader, that we did not drink all of that wine in one day, but, alas, we were on holiday. We didn't finish it all, but damn did we try to.

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